Our 4th full day in Ireland was spent at the Aran Island and in the tiny town of Doolin. The seas were windy and rough that day, so we were not able to take the Ferry out to the Cliffs of Moher in the afternoon like we had planned. But, we still were able to take the Ferry out to the biggest of the Aran Islands, InishMore. Though my poor daughter and many other passengers had horrible seasickness on the way there.
We needed to be at the Doolin Ferry port at 9:40 and it was an 1:25 hour drive from Galway. So, we had to be up and moving early. We picked up breakfast at a Tesco Petrol station. It was amazing to me that a lot of the petrol stations serve a full hot Irish breakfast for cheap.
We checked into the O’Brien Ferry office to redeem the voucher that I paid for online ahead of time and get our tickets. Then it was a short walk over to the pier to await the ferry to arrive. This was a people-only ferry. No cars. We rushed over there thinking we were late and joined to line of about 50 other people only to be told that we were all told the wrong pier. So, we all had to walk way over to the other pier, just as the boat was arriving.
We boarded the boat on the scary plank with the assistance of the boatmen and took some seats on the lower level of the boat. There were nice, cushioned seats for about 50 people and then additional seats outside for an additional 25 or so. It was so chilly and windy that day, that we thought the inside seats would be better. But, it ended up being stuffy and hot. Which, combined with the rough seas and sea sickness, was not the best idea.
Morgan ended up getting very seasick even with a scopolamine patch on. So, on the ride back I gave her Dramamine. Also, onboard was a group of 8 college boys that were heading out the islands for a bachelor party camping trip. They had been out very late drinking the night before, already hung-over, and running late. It was not 5 minutes after the boat left the dock, that 4 of the boys were running to the back of the boat to vomit into the sea.
After a very rough 45 minute ride, we docked and departed the boat. Right off the boat there was a wonderful man offering a 45 min wagon ride pulled by his tractor around the entire island for only 50 Euros for the 6 of us. It was fabulous and I highly recommend it!!! We was very knowledgeable about the island and showed us all the sights. My only complaint was that I couldn’t take pictures fast enough sometimes!!
I loved all the narrow roads with the stone walls. We were told that every family on the island has been given a certain amount of land on the island and that the land is not always connecting. So each family owns a little plot here and a little plot there. This land has been passed down for generations. There is never property or houses for sale on the island available for outsiders to buy.
He dropped us off at the castle ruins in the center of the island for about 20 min and then picked us up for a ride to the pub that was closest to the pier. It was a 5 min walk back to the pier after that. We then walked along the beach for a while until it was time to re-board the boat back.
While you are there, don’t forget to stop by the Man of Aran Fudge shop right by the pier and get yourself some delicious, homemade fudge from the cute Irish man there!!!
Our boat was about 15 minutes late coming back and everyone on the dock was starting to worry because there were rumors that the ferries were getting cancelled and we might get stuck on the island for the night. There was a different boat there picking up an entire tour group. But at the last minute, they called out and asked it any of us had dual tickets for the cliffs of moher and the island. Which of course we had. So, the 6 of us were told to board the boat at the last minute and find a seat. Which there were none of!! We ended up standing on the top of the boat and holding on to dear life to the railing.
It ended up being THE MOST FUN EVER!!! We were soaked and covered in a fine layer of salt by the time the boat docked. But, we loved it. We laughed the entire time!! There were times the boat was literally at a 45 degree angle. The huge waves just kept coming and coming.
Don’t take off from the parking lot as soon as you get back. There is a lovely, rocky beach to walk with beautiful pictures of the coastline.
We spent the next 2 hours in the small, but adorable town of Doolin. We had a wonderful, late lunch at Gus O’Conner’s Pub. The fish and chips were amazing!! My chowder was filled with ridiculously huge pieces of salmon and cod. SO tasty!!! Don’t forget to order a delicious Irish Coffee!!
There are some wonderful shops in Doolin and everyone is so friendly. I spent a long time talking to a woman named Maura from The Village Crafts (Irishcraftoutlet.com). She’s an Expat from Portland, Oregon. She was telling me all about how her husband and her sold their big house and expensive cars, quit their jobs, and moved to Ireland just a few years ago. They are happy together working part time and renting a small house just outside Doolin. Less stress and a much calmer way of life. It was there that I bought another long cream-colored sweater even though I’m always hot and rarely wear sweaters. I just couldn’t resist.
We left Doolin heading south and stopped for a few photos of the Cliffs of Moher and Doonagore Castle. We had visited the Cliffs of Moher 5 years ago and had been to the visitor center. So, on this trip we wanted to see the cliffs from a different angle. We drove about a mile or two past the visitor center and made a right turn when we saw a drive-way that stated Cliffs of Moher access. We paid 1 euro to park on this farmers land at a little gravel parking lot he had created. Then it was a steep hike up a long, gravel path he had made right up to the cliffs!!! There were cattle grazing on either side of the fences on the path. Now, I am not sure if you are aware. But, there is a 18km path that runs along the cliffs all the way from Doolin to Derreen/Liscannor that you can walk. Much of the trail is dangerously close to the edge just like the part we visited this time. It was very, windy that day (which was why our boat tour was cancelled). I was definitely the over-protected mom that day. Yelling at my daughter to get away from the edge before a gust of wind blew her off!! But, I did get some great photos of us all sitting on the edge!!!
We made our way to Killarney after that for a 1 night’s stay at Murphy’s in Killarney again!!! We stayed at Murphy’s last time and loved the location and the huge triple rooms!!! It was a 2.5 hour drive to Killarney. But, we wanted to be close the Dingle Peninsula for the morning.
Most of us were exhausted by this time and wanted to stay in. But, we wanted to at least enjoy the music for a little while. Murphy’s of Killarney has live music every night!!! Then, my sister and I wandered around to the other pubs for a little while listening to all of the other pubs with live music. I absolutely LOVE Killarney. If it wouldn’t have been pouring down rain and we were exhausted we would have stayed out for most of the night like the last time we were there. When the pubs close, there is a dance club right in the center of the action that is packed until the wee hours of the morning.
Stay tuned for my next blog all about our trip around the Dingle Peninsula!!
